Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive roster of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound culinary traditions and lively culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its essence: an immense passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The vendor whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
